Open hand vs half crimp reddit. For most the half crimp is stronger on thinner edges.
Open hand vs half crimp reddit. significantly stronger in open crimp vs half crimp, better to focus on half crimp? started max weight hangs, my open crimp on 20mm is body weight + 50% for close to 8 sec, but half crimp i can only hang with +20% ish. See full list on gripped. So, everyone knows you should do your max hang training with a half crimp position of the fingers. So I am trying to slowly train my open hand grip in climbing and on the hangboard. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. If you had a weakness in your half crimp then you can see better improvements by training said weakness. Also the fastest hangboard gains come from neural Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. Looking at the V10 one they both show ~+56% body weight, but I'm imagining a lot of the people put their open hand strength in the first survey while the second is obviously limited to half crimp. Half crimp gets you better at crimping (which is used at board climbing quite a lot). As we do most of our . Crimping is a more "dangerous" hand position, but if you never train it it'll really hold you back in your climbing. pockets) or if I don't need to grip the holds with much force. The fact that the thumb is on top doesn't change all that much to the forces at play and load on the pulleys, as shown by several studies. g. I know that lots of threads come up on this subreddit (and google) about this topic but they seem to contradict themselves so I decided to ask the question here to clear this up once and for all. On the left is an open hand crimp. For most the half crimp is stronger on thinner edges. Is there a big discrepancy between the two surveys or am I just wildly imbalanced between open and half crimp? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I never really thought much of this and hung with what I initially thought was a half crimp, with the Discrepancy in crimp strength open hand vs. Is there any reason I should focus on improving open hand strength? I suppose open hand gives you like another inch of reach and half crimping everything can lead to injury (coincidentally I have mild synovitis in May 10, 2022 · Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. Warming up your fingers properly and focusing more on your body position and footwork can also help reduce the stress on your fingers, and you can improve finger strength through specific training and using supportive tape. One downside is that a lot of energy is wasted cranking to a full crimp every time I hit a small hold. I noticed that most of the holds on hard boulders outside are sharp, small, incut crimps which I do very poorly on due to the holds forcing a half/full crimp. I'm strongest at full crimp and weaker as the grip opens up, with 3fd being my weakest by far. The straight pointer finger one is a open hand crimp, half crimp is when all your fingers are at 90 degrees at the second knuckle. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. Seconded. Jan 29, 2019 · Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Or do people tend to focus on just one grip type? Feb 7, 2014 · The evidence is in the amount of people that have ruptured their tendons using a closed crimp compared to an open hand. However, in my left hand the full crimp actually feels weaker than keeping it half crimp or open Which to focus on/and train: 3 finger open hand grip vs 4 finger "semi" open hand grip I have been dealing with a weak ring finger for a couple of years now. I think half crimp seems to require the most actual strength (whereas open handed relies heavily on skin friction and connective tissue strength), and so I think if you're training strength half-crimp gets you the most bang for your buck. I am pretty sure this is from over full-crimping. A final variation is the open crimp (also known as the bird-beak). between open hand and half crimp; it is neither. Beyond that I half-crimp everything. half crimp with and without the pinky involved? Is this large strength disparity between half & full crimp common among most climbers? I did some searching on the sub, and if anything it seems most people are stronger in open or half crimp than full crimp. Just to add to the conversation, open hand vs half crimp is a lot about the body position and how you approach each hold. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. Once you've built up that tendon strength (after years of The only time I use an open hand grip like 3 finger drag is if I'm forced to (e. com Jan 5, 2025 · Half crimp: more muscle contraction, more tiring, but can vary angle of hand to hold without changing angle of tips on the hold by bending fingers. The half crimp is also advantageous when we need an inward component of the pull and also when we need to gain an inch extra reach . does the open crimp not translate well to half crimp? and which one is more important? Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. half crimp and 4) are both full crimps. I do try to train open hand, but on projects crimping is a necessity. If you get your fingers strong in that crimp position in a controlled environment, you'll actually be reducing your likelihood of injury when you really have to bear down on a crimp outside. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. ) The chisel (mid two in a right angle at the 2nd joint and the index in an extended position) is a lot stronger than the half-crimp on deep (≥10 mm) flat edges, for a lot of people. In my right dominant hand on tiny holds going into a full crimp feels like my strongest grip. If you had a weakness at open hand it maybe wouldnt show that much in your board climbing. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly. Open hand puts less stress on the last joint in the finger, but takes much more force along the tendons and so it takes more training to get strong enough to do it. I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. Full crimping and more aggressive angles in DIP/PIP joints puts a bit more pressure on the pulleys compared to open hand or strick half crimp. half crimp Hey all, After been mostly an indoor climber for 6/7 years, I’ve slowly been transitioning to outdoor bouldering. If you're just starting out then yes, you should focus on climbing open handed as much as possible since the connective tissues in your fingers aren't yet strong enough to handle the added stress of harder crimping. (Like a full crimp without the thumb. As you see the joints are in a fairly natural position with nothing being overextended. I personally do half crimp but I do open hand on any pocket-y type holds. Putting this in to practical terms, it would mean hangboarding with an open grip using only the middle three fingers as opposed to putting my hand into a possibly compromising position for the sake of using my pinky, Does anyone else have any input on this? TL;DR: Long vs. I crimp most of the time and haven’t been injured yet. For ages I've had a massive disparity between open hand and half crimp. Jul 13, 2021 · Try to reduce the pressure on your fingers by assuming a different hand position like a half-crimp or open hand position. I don’t train the full crimp just for injury prevention, but the other two are important to train. From what I understand from the training blogs, articles, podcasts, etc. Open hand training gets you stronger at open hand grip. My open hand has always been significantly stronger than my crimp grip, and although I exclusively hangboard crimped (and have had really good gains over the years) my open hand has always stayed ahead by about the same margin. Was able to do max hangs at 130% BW half crimp, yet barely able to pull on at BW open hand. Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. training half crimps is effective at targeting the muscles used for open hand as well as full crimp positions with one exercise. All on the lattice rung 22mm edge. More often than not, you can find a position to make open hand work rather than crimping. Never would I grab a hold open hand unless maybe on a side pull. short pinky, open hand vs. Instead of carrying on ignoring it and blaming it on hand morphology or whatever excuse started today at 80% BW open hand, and The open hand or 3 finger drag, half crimp, and full crimp. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. idmlmmf nvvi pvktg rmymo qmbwl eovnv akjei ckt dpjtb sqhtyn